RATING: 5.7 3-Pitches
LENGTH: 2-3 hours
GEAR: 2-50 m ( 165 ft. ) Ropes - Quickdraws (6-8)
MAPS: La Sal Junction, UT
SEASON: Any, no snow. Hot in the summer, but good as a morning or evening route.
Looking Glass rock, with its reasonable rating, and spectacular rappel, makes a great outing for those climbers comfortable on runout, but easy terrain. Although the crux moves are well bolted, there is much runout scrambling.
Head south out of Moab on highway 191 about 22 miles to La Sal Junction.
From the parking spot at the base of Looking Glass, climb over the fence, and find the start of the route just around the corner from the fence.
Pitch 1: The start is a move or two up a thin crack to a ledge on the rib, and your first bolt. Scramble up the ridge passing 1 more bolt to a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 2: This pitch is likely the crux, and contains 3 well spaced bolts at the crux moves. This pitch ends at a 2 bolt anchor and large ledge.
Pitch 3: Scramble straight up from the belay. There are no bolts, but it is 4th class. At the top, you will find a bolt you can use as a belay, or clip it and head left on the flat ledge to either a 3 piton, or 3 bolt anchor to belay.
Leave your ropes and gear at this belay, and scramble to the summit. From this last anchor, you can make a short 5 m ( 17 ft. ) rap to a ledge and window. From that ledge, and multiple bolt anchor, it is a 50 m ( 165 ft. ) rappel to the ground. This is a fantastic rappel. Shortly after going through the window, the walls disappear as you rappel into the ampitheater. Amazing.