Hiking Steele Butte
Western Henry Mountains
Overview
Tue 85 | 65 |
Wed 86 | 65 |
Thu 87 | 64 |
Fri 88 | 63 |
Sat 88 | 64 |
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Tue 85 | 65 |
Wed 86 | 65 |
Thu 87 | 64 |
Fri 88 | 63 |
Sat 88 | 64 |
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Steel Butte is one of those summits that I think perhaps the route to the top is the best of the day! To be sure, the views of the Henry Mountains, Capitol Reef, and badlands to the north are excellent from Steel Butte, but the route up, ascending a narrow slot canyon, is so much fun!
I'm not sure what first caught my attention about Steele Butte. We visited as a family in the winter of 2021, planning on poking around a bit to see if there was a route to the summit. We found a social trail on the ridge, but ran out of time to follow it far. When I returned in 2023, I found an exquisite and fun route to the summit.
Getting There
Travel east out of Capitol Reef National Park on highway 24. Just past the park, 0.25 miles, is the well signed Notom road. Turn right onto the Notom Road and follow it for 13.6 miles to the Sandy Ranch Junction on the left (east) side of the road.
- Reset your odometer as you turn left (east) off the Notom Road and start heading toward the Henry Mountains. The road crosses the open desert, before descending to and crossing Sandy Creek. Continue on the main road after the crossing as it continues across the badlands toward the Henry Mountains. There are a few minor side roads to ignore and a number of good primitive campsites along the way. ( 12S 493905E 4217280N / 38°06'12"N 111°04'10"W )
- 9.5 miles - Just after crossing South Creek, the road splits. Go left here. ( 12S 502752E 4215518N / 38°05'15"N 110°58'07"W )
- 13.6 miles - After the road has passed around the north side of Steele Butte, it descends and reaches a junction with a rougher, smaller road leaving on the right. Take this rougher side road. It heads south and west around the base of Steele Butte. ( 12S 507549E 4214390N / 38°04'38"N 110°54'50"W )
- 15.0 miles - Park anywhere off the road. There isn't a landmark for the trailhead, but you are south of the dirt ridge heading up to Steele Butte. ( 12S 506292E 4213007N / 38°03'53"N 110°55'42"W )
Route
The first challenge is to reach the ridge. From the parking area, head north. I entered a major wash a few minutes from the car that I followed up to a steep dirt gully that eventually reaches the ridge proper. This, on my visit, showed signs of a social trail mostly washed out by summer rains.
Head along the ridge toward Steel Butte. When the ridge reaches a rocky slope heading up to steeper cliffs, look for a cairn near a tree to the north at about the same elevation you are at. The goal is to contour around, finding a more defined trail just around the corner that heads northeast above a drainage and into the headwall of Steele Butte.
From a distance, it may not look like there is a way up the imposing cliffs at the head of the drainage. Once there, begins the slot canyon adventure. A move or two of fourth-class climbing leads into the slot. The slot is gorgeous, and narrow. At 6'1" with a 42" chest, I had to turn sideways but fit easily.
Work up the slot, reaching a large boulder blocking the slot that marks the crux of the route. The left looked easiest to me. Once you start feeling around, you will find many well-defined holds, making this short steep step reasonable. Above the boulder, a couple of forks in the canyon lead to dead ends. Continue up until a dry fall blocks the way ahead, but an easy exit is found on the left (looking up canyon) just before the dry fall. The exit out of the slot is 4th class or easy 5th. Be sure you can recognize it on the way back down. Once above the slot, easy open country leads up to the rim overlooking the Henry Mountains between the two high points of Steel Butte.
The true high point is to the north. Both the north and south summits seem to have relatively easy scrambling routes if you look around. Coming darkness had me cut my trip short of the summit, but the initial scrambling was easy with good route finding.
Return the same way.
Trailhead |
12S 506292E 4213007N 38°03'53"N 110°55'42"W |
Bottom Of Gully Up |
12S 506328E 4213426N 38°04'07"N 110°55'40"W |
Stay Level Around Corner |
12S 506631E 4213699N 38°04'16"N 110°55'28"W |
Exit From Slot |
12S 506914E 4213857N 38°04'21"N 110°55'16"W |
Overlook |
12S 507025E 4213900N 38°04'22"N 110°55'12"W |
Steele Butte Summit |
12S 506921E 4214128N 38°04'30"N 110°55'16"W |