Fiddlestick

I was in Zion this summer when a group behind us in Deadeye Dick caught up and was critiquing our use of the Fiddlestick. His point was "my friend ***** says it is way overused .. No point in using it here when there is an anchor in place .." His comments and overall attitude toward the Fiddlestick inspired me to write a review. I feel this clever little tool is misunderstood by many. (particularly the armchair canyoneer crowd that doesn't actually get out and use new-fangled tools).

Disclaimer: The Fiddlestick is an advanced canyoneering anchor technique. This is a review of how I use it and my thoughts on it. Read the instructions, be sure to fully understand how to use it, and understand its limitations before using it in the field. Improper use could be fatal!

What is it?

The Fiddlestick is a simple piece of Lexan plastic with a hole drilled in one end. The spec page lists its weight at 2 ounces, which I can't disagree with. In conjunction with a Stone (Stein) knot, it allows for easy retrieval of a rope in many situations and is incredibly lightweight.

In addition to the fiddlestick, you will need a pull cord. My current preference is 1/8" Amsteel Blue, which has a minimum strength of 2300 pounds and weighs in at 0.5 pounds per 100 feet. I have a potshot that holds my Fiddlestick and 330 feet of Amsteel Blue. Total weight is probably about 2 pounds.

How does it work?

See Tom's tech tips for how to set it up: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/

The Good

Ultralight: Saves the weight of a traditional second rope; perfect for solo or small groups.
Efficiency: Coiling work is split; one person bags the rope, one bags the pull cord. Fast setup!
Rope Grooves: Only a few feet of rope pull over the lip, almost eliminating rope grooves in soft rock.
Verification: Setup is simple and very easy to verify visually.

The Bad

Orientation: Care must be taken so the stick doesn't push against rock and self-release.
Snags: Pull path must be clear of deep crevices.
Static Use Only: Not suitable for jugging or high-motion rescue scenarios.
Dry Use: NOT TO BE USED IN FLOWING WATER!

Bottom Line

I love it and have used mine on likely over 100 rappels by now, up to about 240'. Being a nervous nelly, I have a couple of caveats:

To ensure it can't push against the rock, I have—in one extreme case—rappelled double strand down 10 feet to a ledge, then rigged the Fiddlestick there in free space. Creativity is key. In a group setting, I have everyone except the last person rappel off a fixed 8-on-a-bight as a backup, then the last person (or two) rigs the Fiddlestick.

Amsteel Blue: Sliced Bread or Tangled Monster?

Amsteel Blue is amazingly strong and light. Highly recommended with a Fiddlestick, but be aware: until you figure out a system, it can be a tangled mess.

My easy approach to coiling:

Take 12-15 loops (approx 12 inches each) in your hand, then place them in a potshot. Repeat until bagged. Tie both ends to the bag!

Beware!

Abrasion: Small diameter means it cuts easily. Do not use as a standard pull cord.
Tangles on Rappel: After it is dropped, have someone pull it away from the rope to prevent it from tangling into your rappel line.