Cleopatra's Chair |

Robbers Roost

Climbing Cleopatra's Chair - Robbers Roost Climbing Cleopatra's Chair
Robbers Roost

Overview | Getting There | Route | Photos | Maps | Comments

Overview

RATING: 5.9R
LENGTH: 1-2 hours
MAPS: Cleopatras Chair, UT

Fri

73 | 55

Sat

72 | 47

Sun

77 | 47

Mon

73 | 53

Tue

73 | 49

View Full Weather Details
SEASON: Any, no snow
GEAR: 2-60 m ( 197 ft. ) Ropes - Light Rack of Cams
NOTES: The road is extremely rough. Serious 4x4s only!

Fri

73 | 55

Sat

72 | 47

Sun

77 | 47

Mon

73 | 53

Tue

73 | 49

View Full Weather Details
Cleopatras Chair

Cleopatras Chair

Climbing Cleopatra's Chair is something I had wanted to do for a long time. The 5.6 C0 rating made it sound fun, the "shoulder stand" made it sound adventurous. True to my impression, it didn't disappoint. The route is not for 5.6 leaders! We avoided the shoulder stand at about 5.8, but above that move there is a good section of runout climbing. A slip would be disastrous, and help a long way off. Cleopatra's Chair is a true adventurous desert summit best left to those with a bit of experience. The summit is amazing, however, and highly recommended. There isn't a trip to Robbers Roost that I don't view the tower from a distance with a bit of nostalgia from our trip up it.

Cleopatras Chair

Cleopatras Chair

Getting There

Note: The trailhead is inside Canyonlands National Park. OHV and ATVs are not allowed per Canyonlands Policy.

Head south from Interstate 70 on highway 24 toward Hanksville. At milepost 135.5, just past the Goblin Valley turnoff, turn east on the Hans Flat road.

  • Turn left (east) onto a signed, graded road at mile post 135.5 and reset your odometer. ( 12S 537332mE 4275067mN / N38° 37' 24" W110° 34' 16" )
  • Follow this two-wheel-drive graded dirt road for 24.5 miles to an obvious junction with an information kiosk. Reset your odometer at this junction and go right. ( 12S 562756mE 4258500mN / N38° 28' 21" W110° 16' 50" )
  • Travel 7 miles to another prominent junction, and go left. ( 12S 560687mE 4247916mN / N38° 22' 39" W110° 18' 19" )
  • 9.6 - Spur road on the left goes to Granary Spring and decent camping. ( 12S 561625mE 4243866mN / N38° 20' 27" W110° 17' 41" )
  • 13.6 - Major junction, stay left on the main road to Hans Flat. ( 12S 562679mE 4237432mN / N38° 16' 58" W110° 16' 60" )
  • 15.1 - Junction, stay left. ( 12S 564000mE 4235600mN / N38° 15' 58" W110° 16' 06" )
  • 20.6 - Hans Flat Ranger Station ( 12S 571767mE 4234460mN / N38° 15' 19" W110° 10' 47" )
  • From Hans Flat
  • From the Ranger Station, go 2.4 miles toward the Maze and turn left onto the North Point Road. The road is very bad from here on out. ( 12S 574333mE 4232098mN / N38° 14' 02" W110° 09' 02" )
  • 6.5 miles down the North Point Road is a junction, stay left. ( 12S 581984mE 4237344mN / N38° 16' 50" W110° 03' 45" )
  • 8.5 miles - Trailhead at the base of Cleopatras Chair ( 12S 580613mE 4239644mN / N38° 18' 05" W110° 04' 41" )
Cleopatras Chair Pitch 2

Cleopatras Chair Pitch 2

Route

From the parking spot, the route is the obvious chimney. To clarify obvious, it starts as a hand crack, then makes a traverse right, into the chimney. The hand crack is fairly low angle, and you climb 25 or 30 feet before the traverse. This pitch is very secure with good holds at the traverse if you traverse in the correct spot. I placed 1-#2 Robot cam right before making the traverse move.

Rope drag could be a problem, so belay at the base of the chimney.

The chimney pitch is unique! Hike up this narrow slot passing a move or two of scrambling here and there until you reach the top, and it begins dropping into the dark abyss down the other side. Belay here. No gear used on this pitch, but you could place a few pieces if desired.

The crux! From the saddle, you need to climb straight up the right wall (looking up the slot), trending right after the second mantle to easier ground. This pitch is gear-less, and tricky. A shoulder stand would get you past the first mantle move, but still requires a 5.7+/5.8-ish mantle, and some easier but very exposed climbing to more friendly territory. I used a wide stem and big balance move to get established on top of the first mantle without using a partner assist. Tricky.

From the top of the crux, there is a bush you can use as a belay. Next, trend down and north to where the rap anchor is. The anchors is a small tree and piton. We left most of the gear here, and proceeded to the top scrambling up low 5th class slabs.

The views are incredible!

Definitely an adventure route.


Maps

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