Climbing Window Blind Peak - North Rib - San Rafael Swell

Overview

Sun

75° | 43°

Mon

72° | 48°

Tue

65° | 44°

Wed

67° | 40°

Thu

76° | 41°

( Rated 4.0 / 1 Ratings )

12 Todo Lists / 1 Ticks

RATING: 5.7 3-Pitches

LENGTH: 5-7 hours (5.1 miles)

MAPS: Bottleneck Peak, UT

SEASON: Spring, Fall

GEAR: 2-60 m ( 197 ft. ) Ropes - Light Rack of Cams

Sun

75° | 43°

Mon

72° | 48°

Tue

65° | 44°

Wed

67° | 40°

Thu

76° | 41°

Heading up to the base of the first pitch

Window Blind Peak has one of the best views in the San Rafael Swell. From its summit, you can see the Upper Black Box, Mexican Mountain, and many other of the prominent landmarks in the Swell. Gear on the route is a bit sparse, so this is for confident leaders only.

Pitch 2

Getting There

The trailhead starts from the Mexican Mountain road. To get to the Mexican Mountain road, which is near the San Rafael Campground, depends on where you are coming from:

From the North

Just before the town of Castle Dale, at milepost 39.4, go east on the signed San Rafael Swell Access road. Reset your odometer as you turn off the highway onto the dirt road. 12S 500218E 4341289N / 39°13'15"N 110°59'51"W

Continue on this road, passing a cattle guard after 12 miles, and reaching a 4 way junction at 12.7 miles. 12S 518059E 4336281N / 39°10'32"N 110°47'27"W

Continue east at this 4 way junction for 2.4 miles to the signed Buckhorn Wash road. 12S 521483E 4335782N / 39°10'16"N 110°45'05"W

Go down Buckhorn Wash about 9.5 miles to a Cattleguard where the Mexican Mountain road goes off on the left (east). This is just before the bridge over the San Rafael River. 12S 529069E 4326047N / 39°04'59"N 110°39'50"W

From the South

Take the exit 131 from I-70 (about 30 miles west of Green River), turning right. This road goes east, paralleling the freeway for a couple of miles before turning north. 12S 529541E 4303709N / 38°52'54"N 110°39'34"W

Follow this road 19 miles to where the San Rafael campground is, and the bridge over the river. The cattle guard marks the lower end of Buckhorn Wash. The Mexican Mountain Road goes off to the east here. 12S 529065E 4326048N / 39°04'59"N 110°39'50"W

From the Mexcian Mountain Road

Head down the Mexican Mountain road. It is 1.8 miles to a wash with a road heading down to the San Rafael River. Take this road a short distance to the river. 12S 531304E 4324994N / 39°04'25"N 110°38'17"W

Window Blind Peak in the Winter

Route Description

From the parking spot, you need to find a way to cross the San Rafael River. Usually, this is a small feat, but on my first attempt, I found a spot over chest deep. Choose your crossing spot carefully, and you will likely not get over knee deep.

Once across the river, follow the obvious wash as it works it's way up to Window Blind Peak. There are no major obstacles, but it is a bit of a walk. As you near the windows, aim for the base of the east window. The route climbs to the notch separating the windows, then up between the two windows.

Pitch 1: The start is a move or two up to a section of easy climbing, soon reaching the notch, and arete between the two windows. Create a gear belay here.

Pitch 2: The next pitch is the business, and heads up the easiest path, encountering cracks occasionally. The rock is very poor quality, and a bit runout. This is a long pitch that will deposit you on a wide ledge with some trees. Leave gear here if you would like. This pitch may need to be broken in 2 if you have 50 m ( 165 ft. ) ropes.

Pitch 3: Scramble around to the right, then up the easiest path to the summit. This is 4th class. Enjoy the summit views, they are amazing.

There are rappel bolts on the ledge at the top of pitch 2 you can use to make 2 rappels (with 2 ropes) to the ground. Return the way you came.