Climbing Chimney Rock - Escalante

Overview

Mon

65° | 43°

Tue

70° | 41°

Wed

73° | 43°

Thu

72° | 49°

Fri

74° | 48°

( Rated 3.0 / 3 Ratings )

17 Todo Lists / 0 Ticks

RATING: 5.7 C1

LENGTH: 1-2 hours

MAPS: King Mesa, UT

SEASON: Fall, winter. This tower is closed between March 1 and August 31 for nesting birds.

GEAR: Aiders / Quickdraws / Rivet Hangers OR Hanger and Wing-nuts

NOTES: The trailhead requires a high clearance or 4 wheel drive vehicle. Road conditions vary from easily passable to very rough and slow going depending on when the county last maintained the Hole in the Rock road. Be careful if the road is wet, as it becomes impassable quickly during storms.

Mon

65° | 43°

Tue

70° | 41°

Wed

73° | 43°

Thu

72° | 49°

Fri

74° | 48°

Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock is likely not the hardest tower you will ever climb, but it is certainly one of the proudest. The tower stands alone along the flat Hole In The Rock Road. It seems to defy it's surroundings and makes an impressive perch to view Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. To the east, Navajo Mountain to the south-east, King Mesa and slickrock country to the north, and the Kaiparowits Plateau to the south. The dirt road to its base is long, but this is a great adventure if you are in the neighborhood.

There is pretty good primitive camping near the base, as long as it's not windy, and plenty of solitude.

Chimney Rock

Getting There

Head east out of the town of Escalante about 5 miles on highway 12 until the well signed Hole in the Rock road on the south side of highway 12. Reset the odometer as you turn onto this road.

Mile 0 - Hole-In-The-Rock Road Turnoff 12S 453167E 4175716N / 37°43'39"N 111°31'53"W

8.0 miles - Parking area after a cattle guard. This is the Zebra/Tunnel trailhead. 12S 460681E 4165896N / 37°38'22"N 111°26'44"W

12.3 miles - Devil's Garden turn off on the right. The trailhead is about 1/4 of a mile down this road. No camping, but a pit toilet. 12S 463808E 4160175N / 37°35'17"N 111°24'36"W

16.6 miles - Egypt road on the left. This access the Egypt and Neon trailheads 12S 468045E 4154960N / 37°32'28"N 111°21'42"W

24.8 miles - Upper Dry Fork Trailhead on the right (south). This has a large parking area and pit toilet. 12S 478657E 4148035N / 37°28'44"N 111°14'29"W

26.1 miles - Dry Fork Trailhead Road on the left (north). The trailhead is at the end of the road in about a mile. 12S 480198E 4146661N / 37°27'60"N 111°13'26"W

30.9 miles - Red Well side road on the left. Follow this 1 mile to its end for the Red Well Trailhead. 12S 485669E 4141593N / 37°25'16"N 111°09'43"W

33.1 miles - Chimney Rock side road on the left (north). 12S 487309E 4138502N / 37°23'36"N 111°08'36"W

Chimney Rock Side Road - After 0.5 miles, go left at a junction 12S 487891E 4139033N / 37°23'53"N 111°08'12"W

Chimney Rock Side Road - 1.9 miles - Hard right at a junction. 12S 488899E 4140989N / 37°24'56"N 111°07'32"W

Chimney Rock Side Road - 2.6 miles - Go left. 12S 490006E 4140455N / 37°24'39"N 111°06'47"W

Chimney Rock Side Road - 2.9 miles - Chimney Rock Proper 12S 490481E 4140589N / 37°24'43"N 111°06'27"W

Chimney Rock Side Road - 3.6 miles - End of the road and Chimney Rock Trailhead 12S 491273E 4141080N / 37°24'59"N 111°05'55"W

Chimney Rock from below

Route Description

Find the obvious bolt ladder on the north side. Many of the bolts do not have hangers, so river hangers, or wing-nuts and hangers (for the timid) work well. The route follows bolts up, and around the tower. It is simply a bolt ladder until the very top where a couple of easy (5.7) moves take you to the summit. A single 70 m ( 230 ft. ) rope will get you down.