Cave Flat | Western Henry Mountains

Hiking Cave Flat - Western Henry Mountains Hiking Cave Flat

Western Henry Mountains

Overview

RATING: Moderate/Strenuous Hike
MAPS: MOUNT PENNELL, UT; CAVE FLAT, UT; MOUNT ELLEN, UT

Tue

Sunny, with a high near 86. Northwest wind 7 to 12 mph.

86 | 60

Wed

Sunny, with a high near 89.

89 | 59

Thu

Sunny, with a high near 93.

93 | 64

Fri

Sunny, with a high near 91.

91 | 65

Sat

Sunny, with a high near 88.

88 | 63

View Full Weather Details
SEASON: Spring, Fall
GEAR: Standard Hiking Gear
WATER: Generally filterable water about 1/2 way through the hike at Pipe Spring Canyon
NOTES: Reaching the trailhead will require true high clearance four wheel drive. Medium clearance vehicles can get to within about 3/4 of a mile of the trailhead, adding about 1.5 miles roundtrip to the hike.

Tue

Sunny, with a high near 86. Northwest wind 7 to 12 mph.

86 | 60

Wed

Sunny, with a high near 89.

89 | 59

Thu

Sunny, with a high near 93.

93 | 64

Fri

Sunny, with a high near 91.

91 | 65

Sat

Sunny, with a high near 88.

88 | 63

View Full Weather Details
Walking the road back across Cave Flat. Big views of the peaks of the Henry Mountains.

Walking the road back across Cave Flat. Big views of the peaks of the Henry Mountains.

On the western side of the Henry Mountains is a remote region called Cave Flat. The area had piqued my interest for a long time. It is the winter range of the Buffalo herd, and a place I was hoping to do a long hike and find some solitude. It turned out to be a gem!

This route meanders down Bullfrog Creek that starts as a wash and slowly deepens. The creek is often dry. About 4 miles from the trailhead, the creek cuts into sandstone, deepens, and becomes much more interesting. It is about this point that water begins coming up from the ground, and the creek has a small flow. The route, after checking out some interesting side canyons of Bullfrog Creek, loops back on the old road back to the trailhead. Though not slot canyons, or particularly deep canyons, the canyons are quite beautiful.

Distance Note: This is a long hike, 11+ miles depending on side hikes over fairly strenuous terrain. With all the side trips, I clocked almost exactly 15 miles. I was unsure of water availability, so I did the hike as a day hike, but it would be a pleasant 1-2 night backpack. From Pipe Spring Canyon down there was a fairly good amount of spring water. I would assume there would be water here in all but the driest times. Spring or fall would be the best times to hike, both for temperatures and water availability. The area shows countless Buffalo sign; be sure to thoroughly treat the water.
Access Note: The map shows a road that goes out and dead ends on Cave Flat. When I called the BLM office, they said it had washed out a few years ago and was impassable by full-size vehicles. They did not know if it would be repaired. As of 2025, it will be impassable by full-size vehicles from the spot I marked Cave Flat Trailhead on the map. A few smaller 4-wheelers have made it through the washout, I assume with some effort. Even if passable, the road is closed to motor vehicles from November 1st to May 1st each year to protect the buffalo that winter on Cave Flat.
A tree in Pipe Spring Canyon

A tree in Pipe Spring Canyon

Getting There

Travel east out of Capitol Reef National Park on highway 24. Just past the park, 0.25 miles, is the well signed Notom road. Turn right onto the Notom Road and follow it for 13.6 miles to the Sandy Ranch Junction on the left (east) side of the road.

  • Reset your odometer as you turn left (east) off the Notom Road and start heading toward the Henry Mountains. The road crosses the open desert, before descending to and crossing Sandy Creek. Continue on the main road after the crossing as it continues across the badlands toward the Henry Mountains. There are a few minor side roads to ignore and a number of good primitive campsites along the way.  ( 12S 493905mE 4217280mN / N38° 06' 12" W111° 04' 10" )
  • 9.5 miles - Just after crossing South Creek, the road splits. Go right here. ( 12S 502752mE 4215518mN / N38° 05' 15" W110° 58' 07" )
  • 10.5 miles - Junction, stay right. ( 12S 503607mE 4214410mN / N38° 04' 39" W110° 57' 32" )
  • 13.2 miles - Junction. Stay straight, heading south. ( 12S 504942mE 4211288mN / N38° 02' 58" W110° 56' 37" )
  • 16.6 miles - Road croses a wash. This is the trailhead for Sea of Slickrock. ( 12S 508606mE 4208694mN / N38° 01' 33" W110° 54' 07" )
  • 20.3 miles - Junction. Stay straight. (Left goes to Tarantula Mesa.) ( 12S 512059mE 4206893mN / N38° 00' 35" W110° 51' 45" )
  • 21.2 miles - Junction. Go right here, on the rougher Cave Flat road. Medium clearance and lower vehicles may need to walk this last section of road to the trailhead. ( 12S 512668mE 4205843mN / N38° 00' 01" W110° 51' 21" )
  • 22 miles - Large boulder on the right. This is the trailhead. The road crosses the wash just past this and is impassable to all but some ATVs. ( 12S 512179mE 4204919mN / N37° 59' 31" W110° 51' 41" )
Flowing water just below the exit road.

Flowing water just below the exit road.

Route

To Pipe Spring Canyon (5.2 miles)
From the trailhead, follow the road. It is washed out where it enters the creek bed. A short distance down canyon from the trailhead, about 1/3 of a mile, is the seasonal gate. Continue past it as the road goes through the narrowing canyon. Once through the canyon, the road leaves the creek bed on the right. Stay in the creek bed instead. It is cobblestone floored, but pretty easy walking.

This first part isn't particularly pretty. About 3.5 or 4 miles from the trailhead, depending on how you cut corners, a double arch is visible on the left (south) side of the canyon just above the creek bed. It is a beautiful arch. This is a good landmark, as the canyon soon cuts into sandstone and begins to deepen.

As the creek cuts into sandstone, there are two downclimbs that come in pretty quick succession. Climbers and canyoneers will likely find these fairly easy. Some may want a rope for people and/or lower packs. Dogs will find these two obstacles insurmountable without help, and they are high enough to be difficult to just pass dogs down. I would not recommend bringing dogs.

Once in the sandstone-walled canyon, water is likely to start surfacing and flowing in the creek. It is about 3/4 of a mile or so to where Pipe Spring Canyon comes in on the left.

Pipe Spring Canyon (1+ mile side trip)
This is a lovely side trip and can make a good place to filter water. Buffalo don't seem to travel too far up this drainage, so you can likely find a cleaner place to filter water from. As you head up, the canyon is remarkably obstacle free. The flowing stream and trees make for great scenery.

About 1/2 mile or so up, a tunnel is reached. A collapse here at some point made quite the tunnel. Getting into the tunnel is guarded by large boulders. Depending on sand levels below the boulders, teamwork MAY be able to continue upstream in the watercourse. On my visit, solo, it was not possible to climb into the tunnel.

You can use a game trail on the right (looking upstream) side of the canyon just below the tunnel to get around this obstacle and to the ridge. To re-enter the canyon above the tunnel requires a fair bit of route finding up the canyon rim until the vertical walls allow for descent back to the canyon floor. I think the tunnel is a good turnaround spot for most.

Continuing down Bullfrog Creek
Just a few minutes below Pipe Spring Canyon, there are some large trees and decent campsites if you don't mind the buffalo poop. There is also an old road/trail that leaves the canyon on both sides here. The one on the right side (north) is the one that will be followed back to the trailhead. The one on the left goes out and ends at a benchmark in about 10-15 minutes.

Lower Bullfrog Side Trip
From where the roads leave on both sides of the canyon, continuing down Bullfrog for a bit is a nice side trip. The section just below has many springs, small cascades, and small waterfalls. It is an idyllic place to while away some time.

Exit (4.8 miles)

Follow the old road that leaves the canyon on the right and begins climbing to the canyon rim.

Swiss Cheese Side Canyon
As you head up this old road, keep an eye out on the left for a dramatic slot canyon. This side canyon, which reminded me of Swiss Cheese, is worth the brief visit. It is riddled with holes and curved walls. You can climb it fairly easily. Return to the road when finished. (less than 30 minutes roundtrip)

Follow the road up to the canyon rim, where a log barrier is, and the side road meets the "main" dirt road. Go right and follow the main dirt road as it meanders back to the trailhead across the flats.


Maps

Route / 11.32 miles / Elevation Range 5,670 - 6,303 ft.
Printable Maps:

Cave Flat Trailhead

12S 512168mE 4204913mN

N37° 59' 30" W110° 51' 41"

Seasonal Gate

12S 511878mE 4204604mN

N37° 59' 20" W110° 51' 53"

Double Arch

12S 510907mE 4200511mN

N37° 57' 08" W110° 52' 33"

Narrows Start

12S 510882mE 4200331mN

N37° 57' 02" W110° 52' 34"

Pipe Spring Canyon

12S 510681mE 4199130mN

N37° 56' 23" W110° 52' 42"

Tunnel

12S 511398mE 4199166mN

N37° 56' 24" W110° 52' 13"

Swiss Cheese Canyon

12S 510237mE 4199097mN

N37° 56' 22" W110° 53' 01"

Old Road Exit

12S 510443mE 4198969mN

N37° 56' 18" W110° 52' 52"

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