Sid and Charley |

Northern Swell

Climbing Sid and Charley - Northern Swell Climbing Sid and Charley
Northern Swell

Overview | Getting There | Route | Photos | Maps | Comments

Overview


TICKS & TODOS: 4 Todo Lists / 0 Ticks
RATING: 5.7 C0 or 5.10+
LENGTH: I
GEAR: 1 - 60m rope, quickdraws, light rack of gear for getting to the first bolt or stick clip
MAPS: Sid and Charley, UT
SEASON: Any, hot in the summer
NOTES: The road requires a high clearance vehicle. It is typically not very rough, but has sections of deep ruts best negotiated in a high clearance or 4x4 vehicle. A carefully drive Subaru Outback reached the trailhead without difficulty.

Note: If your hoping for good pictures, climbing in the evening is recommended.
Wed Hi:28 Lo:9 Thu Hi:29 Lo:16 Fri Hi:32 Lo:15 Sat Hi:30 Lo:9 Sun Hi:31 Lo:7
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Sid and Charley, named after brothers Sid and Charley Swasey who lived in the Swell in the early 1900's, is an Entrada tower standing in a lonely northwestern corner of the Swell. The tower is infrequently visited, but makes a great outing. It was first climbed in 2001 by Layne Potter at a grade of 5.10 C0, then later free'd at a rated 5.10+. That being said, if your not too proud to pull on bolts (and possibly use a stick clip), this can be done at a very moderate 5.7 C0 or so. The climbing is surprisingly fun, with great exposure and position. The summit offers commanding views over the northern Swell and Cedar Mountain in the distance.

The trailhead doesn't offer any shade but is otherwise very good, solitary camping.

Getting There

The first step, is getting to Moore. This very small community is about 50 miles south of Price Utah on UT-10, or just north of I-70, past the town of Emery. From Moore, take the Moore cut-off road that connects Moore to I-70. This is a paved, 2 lane road. Follow it about 10 miles from Moore to where a side road comes in on both sides, almost across from each other.

  • Take the road on the north (left). It passes through a gate in 0.2 miles. ( 12S 499459mE 4306460mN / N38° 54' 25" W111° 00' 22" )
  • Continue, passing another gate at 2.5 miles. ( 12S 500957mE 4310137mN / N38° 56' 25" W110° 59' 20" )
  • Finally, and 3.1 miles, you will reach a junction, with Sid and Charley visible on your left. ( 12S 500734mE 4311367mN / N38° 57' 05" W110° 59' 29" )
  • Go left, following the road 0.25 miles to a parking area a short distance from the base of the tower. ( 12S 500204mE 4311580mN / N38° 57' 11" W110° 59' 52" )

Route

The climb starts on the east side, up the obvious chimney between the two formations. Stem up to the first bolt, about 25 or so feet up. Although the climbing is easier than it likely appears from the ground, climbing part way and stick clipping the bolt is relatively easy. Two bolts bring you around a constriction in the chimney, and to an apparent anchor. (1 bolt / 1 piton) Either belay here, or back clean a bit to reduce rope drag.

The route now traverses right, on closely spaced bolts, to a chimney. Head up the chimney on bolts to the summit and register.

One 60 m ( 197 ft. ) rope is plenty for getting down.


Maps

Printable Maps:
Sid & Charley

12S 500268mE 4311654mN

N38° 57' 14" W110° 59' 49"

Sid & Charley Side Road

12S 499456mE 4306467mN

N38° 54' 26" W111° 00' 23"

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