Climbing Homer and Marge Tower

Kane Creek

Overview

( Rated 4.0 / 2 Ratings )

7 Todo Lists / 1 Ticks

RATING: 5.5 C1

LENGTH: 1-2 hours (0.3 mile)

MAPS: TROUGH SPRINGS CANYON, UT; SHAFER BASIN, UT;

Sat

97 | 71

Sun

98 | 72

Mon

96 | 75

Tue

95 | 72

Wed

97 | 72

View Full Weather Details

SEASON: Any, although summers can be hot.

GEAR: 50 m ( 165 ft. ) Rope – Quick draws – Stick Clip – Black Diamond #5 or equivalent, aid gear

Sat

97 | 71

Sun

98 | 72

Mon

96 | 75

Tue

95 | 72

Wed

97 | 72

View Full Weather Details

climb

access: 2wd

Weird and fun tower climbing in Kane Creek!

Home and Marge is a unique tower, or rather 2 towers than have leaned on each other over time. Similar, I assume in the first ascenders mind, to how Home and Marge lean on each other in a symbiotic relationship.

Not very interesting climbing leads to an amazing summit on a unique feature. I recommend this one!

Homer and Marge Tower - The route summits the left tower.

Nearing the summit of Homer and Marge Tower

Getting There

From downtown Moab, head to south to Kane Creek Blvd. Turn right on Kane Creek Blvd. (This is currently where the McDonald's and Burger King are.)

Reset odometer as you turn onto Kane Creek Blvd. ( 12S 626362E 4269376N / 38°33'50"N 109°32'59"W )
2.6 miles - Moab Rim Trailhead and Pit Toilet on the left. ( 12S 623455E 4268771N / 38°33'32"N 109°34'59"W )
2.7 miles - King Bottom Campground ( 12S 623368E 4268646N / 38°33'28"N 109°35'03"W )
3.05 miles - Moonflower Campground / Trailhead on the left and rock art panel. ( 12S 623137E 4268307N / 38°33'17"N 109°35'12"W )
3.5 - Dirt road goes off on the left and up a hill. This is the Elephant Panel Trailhead. ( 12S 622637E 4267587N / 38°32'54"N 109°35'34"W )
4.0 miles - Small Sheep Rock art panel next to the road on the left. ( 12S 622334E 4267010N / 38°32'35"N 109°35'46"W )
4.3 miles - Small petroglyph panel next to the road on the left. ( 12S 622112E 4266521N / 38°32'19"N 109°35'56"W )
4.6 miles - Pritchett Canyon Trailhead ( 12S 622059E 4266123N / 38°32'07"N 109°35'58"W )
4.7 miles - Road turns to dirt with a big parking area on the left. ( 12S 622011E 4266036N / 38°32'04"N 109°36'00"W )
5.1 miles - Small parking area and trail going up to a panel on the left. ( 12S 622546E 4265578N / 38°31'49"N 109°35'39"W )
5.3 miles - Large parking area on the right. This is the False Kiva Trailhead, and also the Amasa Back Trail Parking area. ( 12S 622314E 4265360N / 38°31'42"N 109°35'48"W )
5.8 miles - Amasa Back Trail ( 12S 621895E 4264888N / 38°31'27"N 109°36'06"W )
6.1 miles - Birthing Rock on the right. Small parking area. This is also the trailhead for Map Panel. ( 12S 621821E 4264647N / 38°31'19"N 109°36'09"W )
6.18 miles - Boulder with petroglyph on the right. ( 12S 621845E 4264524N / 38°31'15"N 109°36'08"W )
6.2 miles - Parking are on the left just after cresting a hill and starting down the other side. This is the Funnel Arch Trailhead. ( 12S 621995E 4264439N / 38°31'12"N 109°36'02"W )
6.9 miles - Spring Site Walk in Campground ( 12S 622505E 4264245N / 38°31'05"N 109°35'41"W )
7.7 miles - Hunter Canyon Campground ( 12S 622319E 4263329N / 38°30'36"N 109°35'49"W )
8.0 miles - Ice Cream Parlor Climbing Area on the left. ( 12S 622006E 4263348N / 38°30'37"N 109°36'02"W )
9.5 miles - Ledge A Campground ( 12S 621541E 4261386N / 38°29'33"N 109°36'23"W )
9.9 miles - Ledge B Campground ( 12S 621699E 4260561N / 38°29'06"N 109°36'17"W )
10.2 - Happy Turk Hoodoo / Pensive Putterman ( 12S 621873E 4260234N / 38°28'56"N 109°36'10"W )
10.3 miles - Ledge C Campground ( 12S 621920E 4260107N / 38°28'51"N 109°36'08"W )
11.3 miles - Ledge D Campground ( 12S 622052E 4258687N / 38°28'05"N 109°36'03"W )
11.4 miles - Ledge E Campground ( 12S 622055E 4258554N / 38°28'01"N 109°36'03"W )
13.2 miles - Homer and Marge Trailhead ( 12S 619980E 4258997N / 38°28'16"N 109°37'29"W )

Just below the summit.

Route

Route: Chili Cook Off

The route is not visible from the road.

From the parking spot, find an easy way up the first cliff band on the west, and follow the cliff band as it parallels the road. One up the cliff band, you will see Homer and Marge to the north west shortly. With good route finding, it is an easy hike to its base. The route is on the north west side.

Start the route by climbing a 10 foot narrow crack to a ledge. This short crack is a challenge. A #5 C4 camalot fits nicely to aid this section if desired. Once on the ledge, go left, and follow the bolts up to a small ledge below the summit. At this point, switch from aid climbing to easy free climbing (5.5) to the anchors below the summit. A short boulder problem easily attains the summit. Rappel the route.