Climbing Happy Turk Hoodoo
Kane Creek

Overview

( Rated 5.0 / 1 Ratings )

1 Todo Lists / 2 Ticks

RATING: 5.8 C1

LENGTH: 1-2 hours

MAPS: None Needed.

Tue

91 | 58

Wed

92 | 61

Thu

92 | 62

Fri

93 | 62

Sat

93 | 63

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SEASON: Any, hot in summer.

GEAR: 50 m ( 165 ft. ) Rope – Quick draws (6-8) – Stick Clip, aid gear

Tue

91 | 58

Wed

92 | 61

Thu

92 | 62

Fri

93 | 62

Sat

93 | 63

View Full Weather Details

climb access: 2wd

One of the more outlandish moderate routes around Moab, Happy Turk Hoodoo is an easy aid route up a photogenic ice cream cone shaped tower. It is also known as the Golf Ball for obvious reasons.

This one is photogenic and fun! The route is essentially a bolt ladder, C1, though some trickery might be involved in clipping the first bolt as it is a bit high, and there is a little free climbing at the top.

Do this one before the tower eventually falls down in a year, 10 years, 1000 years, who knows....

The original way to clip the first bolt.

Getting There

From downtown Moab, head to south to Kane Creek Blvd. Turn right on Kane Creek Blvd. (This is currently where the McDonald's and Burger King are.)

Reset odometer as you turn onto Kane Creek Blvd. ( 12S 626362mE 4269376mN / N38° 33' 50" W109° 32' 59" )
2.6 miles - Moab Rim Trailhead and Pit Toilet on the left. ( 12S 623455mE 4268771mN / N38° 33' 32" W109° 34' 59" )
2.7 miles - King Bottom Campground ( 12S 623368mE 4268646mN / N38° 33' 28" W109° 35' 03" )
3.05 miles - Moonflower Campground / Trailhead on the left and rock art panel. ( 12S 623137mE 4268307mN / N38° 33' 17" W109° 35' 12" )
3.5 - Dirt road goes off on the left and up a hill. This is the Elephant Panel Trailhead. ( 12S 622637mE 4267587mN / N38° 32' 54" W109° 35' 34" )
4.0 miles - Small Sheep Rock art panel next to the road on the left. ( 12S 622334mE 4267010mN / N38° 32' 35" W109° 35' 46" )
4.3 miles - Small petroglyph panel next to the road on the left. ( 12S 622112mE 4266521mN / N38° 32' 19" W109° 35' 56" )
4.6 miles - Pritchett Canyon Trailhead ( 12S 622059mE 4266123mN / N38° 32' 07" W109° 35' 58" )
4.7 miles - Road turns to dirt with a big parking area on the left. ( 12S 622011mE 4266036mN / N38° 32' 04" W109° 36' 00" )
5.1 miles - Small parking area and trail going up to a panel on the left. ( 12S 622546mE 4265578mN / N38° 31' 49" W109° 35' 39" )
5.3 miles - Large parking area on the right. This is the False Kiva Trailhead, and also the Amasa Back Trail Parking area. ( 12S 622314mE 4265360mN / N38° 31' 42" W109° 35' 48" )
5.8 miles - Amasa Back Trail ( 12S 621895mE 4264888mN / N38° 31' 27" W109° 36' 06" )
6.1 miles - Birthing Rock on the right. Small parking area. This is also the trailhead for Map Panel. ( 12S 621821mE 4264647mN / N38° 31' 19" W109° 36' 09" )
6.18 miles - Boulder with petroglyph on the right. ( 12S 621845mE 4264524mN / N38° 31' 15" W109° 36' 08" )
6.2 miles - Parking are on the left just after cresting a hill and starting down the other side. This is the Funnel Arch Trailhead. ( 12S 621995mE 4264439mN / N38° 31' 12" W109° 36' 02" )
6.9 miles - Spring Site Walk in Campground ( 12S 622505mE 4264245mN / N38° 31' 05" W109° 35' 41" )
7.7 miles - Hunter Canyon Campground ( 12S 622319mE 4263329mN / N38° 30' 36" W109° 35' 49" )
8.0 miles - Ice Cream Parlor Climbing Area on the left. ( 12S 622006mE 4263348mN / N38° 30' 37" W109° 36' 02" )
9.5 miles - Ledge A Campground ( 12S 621541mE 4261386mN / N38° 29' 33" W109° 36' 23" )
9.9 miles - Ledge B Campground ( 12S 621699mE 4260561mN / N38° 29' 06" W109° 36' 17" )
10.2 - Happy Turk Hoodoo / Pensive Putterman ( 12S 621873mE 4260234mN / N38° 28' 56" W109° 36' 10" )

Route

The original way to clip the first bolt involved driving close to the base of the tower, standing on your car roof, and stretching to reach the first clip. The road, however, has now been closed. Now you'll need to stick clip it from the ground. This is likely the crux, as the bolts use chain links instead of hangers, so clipping is tricky. It goes free at hard 5.11 if you don't want to stick clip.

However you get the first bolt clipped, just follow the bolt line to the top. Several bolts are spaced a bit and require top stepping or a good reach. A couple of free moves guard the top. Rock climbing shoes are recommended to make these moves. Rappel from bolts on top.